Sunday, April 5, 2009

The Mouth of the Mighty Columbia


Astoria, OR has had a major revitalization in its historic downtown. The massive stone buildings have been renovated to house a handful of good restaurants (Clemente's, Baked Alaska, Bridgewater Bistro), a few hotels (the Elliot), cafes (Columbian Cafe), theaters (Liberty, Columbia), and shops. One old bank is now a luxury spa (The Banker's Suite).

Dominating the whole scene is the massive Astoria-Megler truss bridge that spans the Columbia River and connects Washington and Oregon. Those who grew up with an Erector Set will be especially impressed. The Columbia River brings water from as far as Utah, Wyoming, Montana, and Canada into the Pacific. After 1200 miles, it hits the Pacific with an average of 275,000 cfs. That volume makes it second only to the Missouri-Mississippi output into the Gulf of Mexico.

So much water coming down the pipe frustrates the Pacific Ocean and the two forces battle it out in one of the world's most powerful marine environments. Pacific swells traveling from the coast of Asia slam into All-North-American freshwater in mountains of waves and freakish currents and hydraulics. Early seaborne explorers searching for an inland passage passed right by the Columbia, unable to see the river behind the waves.
The Coast Guard Station at Cape Disappointment on the Washington side routinely performs daring rescues in these conditions. They have a boat that can completely capsize and flip back around. I have always wanted to do a story on these badasses. For now, I walk onto the jetty in rain that's slapping me sideways. The waves slamming into the car-sized boulders of the jetty are terrifying. I'm too scared to take a picture and Banana is getting worried.

I did not take this picture.

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